Quantcast
Channel: Natural Chicken Keeping
Viewing all 182 articles
Browse latest View live

Breed Overview - Skånsk Blommehöns - The Swedish Flower Hen

$
0
0




By Leigh

All of the following photographs are birds from my own flock. The Swedish Flower Hen is so much fun to keep and to breed. There is such an amazing array of color within the breed, and just like Forest Gump's box of chocolates, you just never know what you're going to get!

 


 






Skånsk Blommehöna

Chickens in Sweden:
Domestic chickens were introduced to Sweden about 2000 years ago, brought to the country by traders, settlers and even Viking marauders. Today it is unknown what or how many varieties of chickens were brought to Sweden’s shores in those early days, but that unknown mix of birds propagated over the next two-thousand years, developing into what are now considered the country’s native breeds. 


 Edward Neale Gallus gallus (The original Red Jungle Fowl)


The Swedish Flower Hen is a landrace breed. This means that the breed developed naturally over hundreds of years. As a Darwinist creation, human intervention and selective breeding never played a role in the development of the breed. Chicks hatched from random pairings of the strongest, hardiest birds in each flock to create a genuinely robust breed of chicken. The Swedish Flower Hen or Skånsk blommehöna, developed in the southern part of Sweden over the last 500 years. As the weather is generally mild in these areas providing favorable conditions for the development of the breed, the Swedish Flower Hen became the largest of Sweden’s native breeds. Farmers considered it a dual purpose chicken, favored for both its ability as an egg layer and for its meat. 




Named for its colorful, spotted plumage, Skånsk blommehöna literally translates to “bloom hen.” The white-tipped feathers make the birds look like a field of blooming flowers. The base color of the birds can be black, blue-gray, reddish-brown, off-white, red or yellow. Almost all of the color variety will have white on the tips of the feathers, giving the bird the spotted appearance. Some blue-gray based birds show more of a darker lacing around the feather edges as opposed to the white markings, but those tend to be the exception to the “spotted” rule. White-based birds often have darker markings on the feathers, but can also be predominately white.
 


While flocks of Swedish Flower Hens were quite prevalent throughout the villages in the southern part of the country for hundreds of years, the breed began to fade out in the late 1800’s with the introduction of imported chicken breeds bred specifically for high egg production or greater meat yield. By the mid 1900’s, the Swedish Flower Hen was a rarity in the country of its creation.

Genebanks:
When Agricultural experts and enthusiast in Sweden realized that so many of the native poultry and livestock breeds were disappearing, the creation of a country gene bank was suggested. The reception was luke-warm at first, but eventually caught on. In 1989 the Swedish Country Poultry Club became the first of the country’s agricultural clubs to create a living gene bank.





In the late 1980’s, the Swedish Flower Hen was thought to be extinct, but diligent representatives of  the Swedish Country Poultry Club were able to locate a few small flocks in the Swedish villages of Vomb, Tofta and Esarp. The numbers of Swedish Flower Hen had dwindled to only 500 by that time. Upon the breed’s rediscovery, the Swedish Country Poultry Club collected some of the nearly extinct breed and later added the birds to the country’s newly-formed gene bank.




Slowly, word spread about the Swedish Flower Hen and other now-rare breeds thanks to the internet. The beautifully colored breed drew the attention of a few rare bird breeders. With an interest in the conservation and proliferation of rare breeds of livestock and poultry, Paul Bradshaw of Greenfire Farm arranged to import a number of breeding pairs of Swedish Flower Hen to the US in 2010.
Quote from Greenfire Farm:

“At Greenfire Farms, we’re on a mission to save some of the world’s rarest breeds of livestock, particularly chickens. This means that when we import a new breed of chicken it is the first step in an ongoing process of improving bloodlines, creating genetic diversity, and ensuring that the breed can potentially survive for centuries on American soil.  So, for example, we may import a small group of chickens only to follow a year later by importing a second unrelated group of the same breed.  In the interim, we carefully evaluate and select offspring for inclusion in our breeding programs.  This is an expensive and time-consuming series of steps aimed at establishing and then improving these very rare breeds.  Essentially, the process of breeding better livestock never ends.  This is the only way we can ensure that the gene pools of these ultra-rare breeds remain pure…




“How rare is ultra-rare?  Many of our breeds are so rare that they don’t appear on conventional livestock conservation lists.  For example, we have chicken breeds at Greenfire Farms that were thought to be extinct until by happenstance a remnant pair is unexpectedly found in a remote farmstead.  Every day we peer deeper into the world of ancient livestock –often amazed at what we find– looking for the faint clues that lead us to these almost mythical breeds.”

On June 17, 2010 the first 15 Swedish Flower Hens landed in the US.

Bradshaw worked diligently to locate Swedish Flower Hen breeding pairs that represented as many of the breed’s possible colors as could be located. The initial fifteen birds, representing 3 different bloodlines, were obtained from a breeder in Sweden who favored specimens without crests on their heads.

The breed can have both crested and non-crested varieties but the Swedish Flower Hen crest is generally never so large as to impede the bird’s vision. Crests can range from simple sprigs atop the head to full and fluffy tassels.






As the initial fifteen birds were of the non-crested variety, Bradshaw had some crested birds imported a number of months later to broaden the gene pool and make crested Swedish Flower Hens available in the US. By mid-November, 2010, a total of 19 Swedish Flower Hens had been imported.

On October 14, 2010 the first Swedish Flower Hen egg was laid in North America. The eggs of Swedish Flower Hen pullets often start out rather small and grow in size as a hen reaches full maturity. 




The eggs of Swedish Flower Hens generally range from a light beige to a creamy-tan color and vary in size from medium to extra-large. The average Swedish Flower Hen will lay about 150 eggs per year. As with most other chicken breeds, a 21 day incubation period is required to hatch chicks.



The first three Swedish Flower Hen chicks were hatched at Greenfire Farm on November 18, 2010.

Swedish Flower Hen Facts:

General:
Largest native breed in Sweden
From the villages Vomb, Toftaand Esarp
Average weather in Vomb: 28 F to 70 F
On the verge of extinction in 1970’s
Gene bank status by Board of Agriculture in 2001
Gene bank is run by Swedish Country Chicken Club
Named for colorful plumage
Currently about 1300 SFH in gene bank in Sweden (number will be changing constantly)
Landrace breed: landrace bird, like the Icelandics. That means they were not created by a breeder, but emerged from primitive breeds brought to the country by their original settlers.
Developed from natural selection and random pairings

 
Conformation:
Body shape is round and robust
Color characterized by a wide range of base color with white feather tips
(Black, Blue (gray), red/orange, brown)
Translation from Swedish site: “The primer can go in black, brown, off-white, red or yellow with a speckle caused by the white dots at the tip of the springs. There are also chickens that are gray-blue with gold colored collar, bright white-gray to blue-gray or tan collar and all-black hens.”
Single, serrated comb
Some SFH are crested – tassels or whole cap – crest is not so large as to impede the bird’s vision.
Un-feathered, Light tan to yellow legs (may start out pink or gray as chicks). skin-colored, yellow or black mottled
Weight 2 to 2.5 kg. (4 lbs. 6 oz. - 5 lbs. 8 oz.) hen, rooster 2.5-3.5 kg. (5 lbs. 8 oz. - 7 lbs. 11 oz.)
Dual purpose bird (egg layers AND meat birds)



Nature:
Calm, curious (quiet & leisurely) yet in touch with surroundings and watchful for danger
Hens are not overly-prone to broodiness which may have attributed to the breed’s rarity by the 1970’s.


Look closely - black Swedish Flower Hens may have mottled leg coloring.

Eggs:
Average 150 M to XL eggs each year
Eggs are crème to light beige/tan in color
Pullets start out laying smaller eggs and the eggs increase in size as the pullets reach full maturity.
21 day incubation


First imported:
June 17, 2010 first 15 SFH landed in US
First imports were from breeder of non-crested SFH
By 11/11/2010 a total of 19 SFH from both crested and non crested flocks had been imported.
3 different bloodlines imported
Worked hard to identify and import birds representing every color variety of the breed
On November 18, 2010 the first SFH chicks hatched on American soil
First egg laid in US 10/14/10  
 

- Leigh

Please feel free to contact me personally with any questions you have about this breed!  shabbychicken@hotmail.com - - or, just leave a comment and I'll answer you.



Free Ranging Cornish Cross (CX) Meat Birds

$
0
0


By Justine -


If you do not want to read about chickens used for meat, you may want to skip over this post. I am an omnivore and I eat meat, and enjoy eating meat. If I am going to eat it, I am going to raise it if possible, and know that what is on my plate has had a wonderful life full of adventures and fresh air. I will not send my birds to the butcher either. I want them to spend their very best and the one bad moment here at our farm. It is less stress on the birds in the end, and that is my feelings on the subject.

So please, if you are vegan or vegetarian move along… Don’t read this… Unless you are looking for proof that chickens for meat can be raised humanely. They also can be killed humanely – and that to me is of the very highest importance. We are thankful for every bite of chicken we take. We know that the animal did not live in vain. They were raised with love and care and strict attention to detail in their management.

I feel a very strong urge to advocate for all the abundant misinformation about the common broiler chickens and their apparent disturbing behaviour everyone seems to go on about.

Here are some of the many labels I often see associated with the Cornish Cross (CX):

  • Disgusting
  • Ugly
  • Smelly
  • Lazy
  • Can’t walk (leg issues)
  • Won’t forage..
  • Lie in their own filth
  • Organ failure – heart attacks common
  • Stupid
  • Tasty (*this one is true*)

What some folks may not know is that all of the above issues have to do with improper management! If your CX are disgusting, smelly, lazy, spending much of the day sleeping in their own filth before dying of heart failure, it is improper husbandry that is the issue, not the Cornish X!

The feeding guides shown online make my jaw drop. No wonder people complain about birds that are laying around, pooping every 5 seconds and sleeping in it. The instructions on raising the CX have mislead so many people. All the falsity is overwhelming. Threads on other chicken forums with the titles like: Cornish X’s = Nastiest birds EVER, do not help their case either.

Last year I had written off the hybrid as a Frankenchicken based on all the info I read online. I was dead-set against raising them on my free range only farm. I didn’t want to have birds penned up for their entire life... I heard that they can’t/won’t free range… I put my foot down… Until I saw one video that made me second guess everything I’ve read about prior. Maybe they can free range and be chickens after all? I might as well give it a shot… If they don’t pan out, I can at least say I tried, right?

This is MY experiencewith the hybrid better known as the Cornish Cross, CX or Meat Kings.

This is a week-by-week summary.



Week One and Two (Days 1 – 13)
I had a rough time with them from day 1 to 14 It was extremely humid and incredibly hot.. we had a run in with Cocci and lost 7 CX and 10 Red Sex Ling (RSL) chicks. We did not treat for cocci, but offered electrolytes (Stress Aid) the day after we noticed low movement and puffiness despite the heat.

They went quickly. Here in Canada you can not get Amprol without a vet’s prescription. It took me 48 hours to get my hands on some, and by that time the electrolytes really perked them up. The strong survived. After they were on grass, the birds were golden. No more illness (save one) who I moved back in and gave Amprol (the only one that was ever dosed). Chick was fine within 2 days and back out with everyone.


Two Weeks (Day 14-20) 
I opened the pop door and let them out. I continued to offer electrolyte water because of the heat being so stressful on the chicks. I found the first week they really didn’t go very far. They could not understand the concept of going BACK INSIDE at night. I had to pick each chick up and place inside the pop door (this includes the red sex link chicks).



Three Weeks (Day 21-27)
Finally the CX are spreading out and returning to the pen at night on their own. Real feathers coming in. They are a good 3 times the size of their hatch mates (the red sex link layers).


Four Weeks (day 28-34)
Really good at foraging now. They run as soon as they hear the back screen door slam shut. They want treats. They are getting closer and closer to my neighbour’s property line.



Five Weeks(day 34-40)
Almost 100% feathered out. They are passing our property lines and ranging two acres now. I do not like to watch them eat. They inhale food. I do love watching them forage though, and they are very active. As soon as the pop door is open they are off.


Six weeks (day 40-46)
Not much change since week five for experience. They have grown some. They are ranging exceptionally well. No leg injuries save one I accidentally jammed in the sliding door of the barn. She will be the first processed. Haven’t lost a single one since cocci outbreak.



See video proof of my CX birds free ranging @ 6 weeks (with other heritage birds, goats and rabbits). Many of them run like Phoebe on Friends 




Seven weeks (day 47-53)
I processed the girl with the injured leg. She was limping, but still got around. I didn’t want it to get any worse so she was processed along with three others. They were too small at this age. Roughly 3 pounds. We were going to do ten, but after seeing the first four gutted and weighed, we decided against it.



Eight weeks (day 54 – 60)
This is when most would start processing the CX. I figured they are still getting around very well, so I’ll give them a little longer. May do the boys at 9 weeks.



Nine Weeks (day 61-67)
They were hogging all the food at feeding time from EVERYONE, so we processed the largest 10 boys at 9 weeks old. Averaged out about 4.5 pounds. Largest was 5 pounds, smallest was just under 4. Much more breast meat seen than at 7 weeks.

  

10-11 Weeks (day 68-81)
This picture is at almost 11 weeks – I have 28 left to process. 4 are boys, 24 girls. Two of the girls look very small. I think I may keep them to laying age. A strict feeding regime is important to do this. I want to see what they will give out when bred to a Heritage Plymouth Rock. I know they don’t breed true.





At 12 weeks of age (88 days old) we processed 26 chickens - 22 pullets and 4 cockerels. You can see them in this video at that age. They were still extremely active and a good size. After they were processed (neck, feet and wing tips off) they averaged 5.5 pounds each. Smallest over 5 pounds, largest over 6. One chicken can feed 8 no problem (unless you are feeding teenage boys).

All in all I loved my experience with the CX. They arenotthe monsters you read about throughout the meat bird forum elsewhere.

What they are:
  • active,
  • intelligent
  • healthy
  • friendly
They are just chickens who just happen to be extremely food motivated, and were bred to gain weight at a 50:50 feed conversion ratio.

The poop smells like poop. The smell is indistinguishable from any other breed of chicken I have raised. It smells like poop. Keeping the litter dry and practising the deep litter method surely helps. If it is very humid out, I find Stable Boy helps greatly with the smell. They do poop bigger than other chickens their age because they EAT more.

If they are not allowed access to full feeders at all hours of the day, they will go on a mission, searching high and low for all of the food that our beautiful mother nature has to offer them. They are amongst the best foragers I have ever witnessed.

The only negatives I have noted is that they are food aggressive, so ample feeder space is required. They also do eat extremely fast and to watch them is not pleasant. It’s like watching a starving animal inhale their offerings twice a day. No matter what, they always seem to be hungry. They are not starving. Don’t let them trick you into feeding them at all hours because they INSIST they are starving. I don’t buy it.



- Justine-
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Leigh Says:

So as you can see, when the Cornish Cross is kept in a healthy, natural setting where it is allowed to free range daily, the health issues we so often hear about are practically nonexistent. The birds kept in industrial settings create an amazingly stark contrast to the picture Justine has painted – The birds that generally end up in large supermarkets live their lives in crowded broiler houses where the only exercise they get is moving from the food to the water. They don’t have access to sunlight or fresh greens, and their health suffers for it.



Please see Justine's original post HERE.
 *

The Amazing Scavenger Hunt-n-Peck with Awesome PRIZES!

$
0
0
If you love to hunt and peck as much as your chickens do, if you would love a GREAT new book on wholesome, all-natural ways to keep your flock healthy and happy, and if you might be just a wee bit competitive, then get ready to have a blast!

Our friend Lisa Steele of Fresh Eggs Daily has offered up a signed copy of her new book Fresh Eggs Daily: Raising Happy, Healthy Chickens... Naturally to the First Place winner of this scavenger hunt-n-peck!



If you are already a fan of Lisa's blog then you're probably already excited about the release of her new book. We at Natural Chicken Keeping are big fans of FED!! I have told Lisa before that while Fresh Eggs Daily is the "Gingham & Lace" chicken keeping blog, Natural Chicken Keeping is the "Torn Denim and Old Shoe Leather" blog. Yet we both have the same goal - spreading the word about all-natural methods of raising chickens. 

We're hoping that as soon as Lisa's life settles down a bit following the release of her book we'll see her out on our ever-growing Natural Chicken Keeping Forum, sharing her great chemical-free advice, recipes and creative ideas. You'll come see us, right Lisa?

Our Second Place contestant will receive a brand new 12 oz. tube of Nu-Stock Ointment!


OK - enough small talk! Ready??


Mandatory Scavenger Hunt-n-Peck Tasks to Enter:

*A* To officially enter the Amazing Scavenger Hunt-n-Peck, "peck" the leave a comment button on this blog post and comment with only your first name (or preferred user name) and the number of chickens you currently have. (The number doesn't have to be exact.) This will be your game ID.
My own entry would look like: 
Leigh 58 
or if I didn't want to share my actual name publicly:  
Bulldogma 58


*B* Natural Chicken Keeping has an Article Index page. Using our Article Index, find the article that would answer your questions about how much coop and run space you need for your chickens. Leave a comment with your game ID on that post simply stating you were there. Mine would say:

"Leigh 58 was here" 



*C*To prevent the lazy folks from simply copying the answers that other people post, I will have you email me answers to the following at shabbychicken@hotmail.com. Copy & paste the following into your email with your answers

<Start Copy> 


  • 1) Natural Chicken Keeping has a Forum where people can share all-natural chicken keeping tips as well as recipes, coop designs, crafts, gardening tips, classified ads and more. Under the heading "Coops, Barns, Runs, Yards & Building Projects," which user posted the topic: "hoop pens, modular designs & more?"
  • (Answer)
  • 2) Who wrote the article on the Natural Chicken Keeping Blog with the title, "Benefits of Lacto-Fermenting Feed for Chickens?"
  • (Answer)
  • 3) Which blog will be doing a book review of the book Fresh Eggs Daily: Raising Happy, Healthy Chickens... Naturally on October 21st?
  • (Answer)
  • 4) What is the first advertisement to appear on the top right side of the Fresh Eggs Daily Blog? (It's just under the header.)
  • (Answer)
  • 5) Natural Chicken Keeping is not the only blog hosting the Fresh Eggs Daily blog tour this week. What non-chicken animal is pictured in the header of the other blog hosting the tour and a book giveaway this week?
  • (Answer)
  • 6) Specify any optional "Extra Entries" from the next section in the following manner:
    • +1 Entry - Liked FaceBook page & commented as (your FaceBook account name)
    • +1 Entry - Following NCK Blog as (user name)
    • +1 Entry - Joined NCK forum as (user name)
    • +1 Entry (Each share) - Shared blog post on (link(s) to sources)
<End Copy - Go Paste!>

Earn Extra Entries (Optional):

  • If you have a FaceBook account, "Like" the Natural Chicken Keeping Page and leave a comment with your game ID (Example: "Bond 007 was here.") Let me know in your email entry what name you are under so I can verify your "Like."
    (+1 Entry)
  • "Follow" the Natural Chicken Keeping Blog via the "Join This Site" button or the "Follow by Email" selection. Let me know in your email entry what name you are under so I can verify you are a NCK Blog follower.
    (+1 Entry)
  • Join the Natural Chicken Keeping Forum. Let me know in your email entry what user name you joined under for verification purposes.
    (+1 Entry)
  • Share this blog post - FaceBook, Twitter, Your Blog... (+1 Entry) for each verifiable method of sharing!


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The first 10 email entries I receive will get a (+1 Entry) automatically! 

A First Place and Second Place winner will be randomly selected from all the entries with correct responses received by 11:59 P.M. on Monday, October 28, 2013. I will be going through to verify the winning contestants have completed ALL Scavenger Hunt-n-Peck tasks correctly. All mandatory tasks must be completed to win.


***


Visit all the other stops along the Fresh Eggs Daily Blog Tour to read some more great reviews and to enter for more chances to win a copy of the book!


Week One

Unclear Gender/Sex? Is My Chicken an Hermaphrodite? The Story of the Gynandromorph Chicken

$
0
0
She looked like a pullet... up until she didn't look like a pullet. But now she doesn't quite look like a rooster, either. What is going on?? At first this chicken's gender was very unclear!



Scientists believe that Gynandromorphism in chickens happens when two sperm fertilize the same egg. It is somewhat rare, happening in 1 of every 10,000 chickens. If you meet enough chicken people, sooner or later you will hear tales of a chicken of questionable sex. And as it so happens, you are currently reading a story on a blog of someone who has a Chicken Of Questionable Sex... so we'll just call this chicken "Coques" for now.


Meet Coques:


Showing his/her girly side. No - I mean really. This just may be the female side of the bird!

As of the writing of this article, Coques is about 23 weeks old. As you can see, s/he has no noticeable saddle feathers. If you look closely, you can see that the tail feathers on this side are rounded, set at an angle and quite pulletish. But look at the tips of the tail feathers you can just make out on the other side... they are sickle feathers!


Can you see the difference?

I knew there was something different about this bird from early in his/her chickhood, but at that time I just thought him/her to be a special needs chick, and that perhaps it had experienced incubation issues and lack of proper nutrition with it's original owner (who fed it low-protein layer feed for it's first couple months of life).

One of the first things I noticed was that s/he was lopsided. Yes - the tail goes to one side, as does the neck, and it runs in the goofiest, klutziest manner I've ever seen.

 Yes - the tail always leans to the left... probably because of the different kinds of feathers coming in on each side.

 Here is where you can actually see a color difference between the two halves of this bird. This difference would be much more pronounced in unmottled breeds where the roosters have different color plumage than hens. Is that cool or what?

I likely would have given this bird away to a pet home had it not been for his/her endearing personality. S/he is by far the friendliest chicken I have ever had.


Yes - this is the chicken that dutifully oversaw my recovery from wrist surgery, and that runs up and right into my hands the moment I step foot outside. No - I never gave him/her treats to teach this behavior... s/he just loves to be cuddled.

Now just for comparison purposes, I'm going to share photos of Coques' full sister (same mother and father). We'll just call this bird "Grace."


 Grace

 Grace (left) and umm... Disgrace... (right)

 Grace - being graceful.

Coques - being "squawkward."

I don't know how Coques will change as s/he gets older. It will be interesting to watch his/her development to say the least. I also don't know how this condition might suppress hormones. While Coques does have sickle feathers coming in on his/her male side, there is little development of either saddle feathers or hackle feathers (at this time). S/he does have a few shiny mahogany feathers here and there (a male trait) but they are few and far between.

  For comparison: Mace is Coques' half-brother (same father), and just 10 weeks older. You can see how noticeable the saddle and hackle feathers are on this roo.

 Coques hatched without a toenail on the female side foot. I don't know if this has anything at all to do with the gynandromorphism or if it was an incubation issue.

There are two forms of gynandromorphism - bilateral gynandromorphism and mosaic gynandromorphism. In bilateral gynandromorphism the body is divided neatly in half - one full half of the body will express features from one gender while the other half of the body expresses features of the other gender. 

Mosaic gynandromorphism expresses more like a patchwork quilt with different areas expressing gender-specific features over the whole body.

(I don't know for sure if Coques is a bilateral or mosaic gynandromorph - perhaps time will tell.)

Both kinds of gynandromorphism happen while the developing embryo is at the very first stages of cell division. It only occurs  in birds, crustaceans and certain insects - mammalian hormones do not allow for the body to develop in a gynandromorphic  manner, but a similar condition called Chimerism does affect mammals in very rare cases.


 As for now, Coques is smaller than other chickens his/her age (even the Silkies). It is likely s/he may never lay an egg or crow, although it is possible s/he could do both. Needless to say, I will not be using him/her in my breeding program, but if s/he stays as friendly as s/he has been up until now, s/he will have a forever home with me!

For more on gynandromorphism (and to see some really striking photos) see:


*Chicken names have been changed to maintain privacy

DIY Healthy Suet Cakes for Your Chickens (and other birds too)

$
0
0




By Leigh -
  
As most of you know, my birds generally free range from sunup to sundown every day. The other day my husband hurried into the house to tell me there was a hawk in a nearby tree. The crows were after it, which is a good thing, but it still put me on edge. Yes - raptors migrate in the Spring and Fall, so even if you never have trouble with aerial predators the rest of the year, it is wise to keep your eyes to the skies during migration season!

I currently have 4 broodies with 11 chicks between them (hawk bait)... and most of the chicks are already sold and waiting until I find someone with whom they can hitch a ride with up to the DC area.

Groan.


That night I grabbed my adult son and we went out after dark and played a game of "musical chickens." We put all the broodies and all their chicks into a single coop with a run, and locked them up... and haven't let them out since.

 (Hey - looks aren't everything. It's secure and it doesn't leak. :-)




ANGRY BIRDS have nothing on these hens and their babies! I get the nastiest looks and have to take drastic measures to prevent escapees every time I open the coop to give them feed or water. (I had the net out twice just today to round up runaways.)





So - while normally these birds would find all kinds of bugs and plants to feast upon throughout the day while free ranging, now I need to supplement their diets with as much of the "next-best-thing" as I can. I also need a boredom-buster for these birds that are so used to running and playing the day away in freedom.

I have found home made Suet Cakes to be a great solution!

By making your own suet cakes, you can customize the mixes based upon your birds' biggest nutritional needs. When hung in a suet cage, a mesh onion bag or just by a rope wound about it, it gives the babies and their mammas a fun family activity. So far these suet cakes have proved to be even more entertaining for my chickens than lining up along the run fence to glare at me as I walk by...

I also happen to have chicks in a brooder. These chicks have never free ranged, but they also need the vegetation and meat protein to insure their health.

So - first pick your ingredients based upon what your birds need most. If you are simply making these to feed wild birds, you can use packaged wild bird feed. For this batch (which I made for my chickens) I used:
  • Fresh young clover (harvested from the chicken yard)
  • raw chicken liver (um... not harvested from the chicken yard in this instance)
  • Squash seeds (natural wormer)
  • Old fashioned oatmeal
  • Dried meal worms
  • Scratch grains
  • Chick starter feed
  • Garlic (great for health and deters external parasites)
  • Oregano (natural antibiotic properties)



I simply used my judgement to determine percentages. You want to think about how much of what they would be eating while free ranging. Lots of clover and vegetation and plenty of bugs! I also use their regular feed as a filler. I use "treat" foods (scratch) very sparingly.

Add more meat protein for molting birds or more vegetables and grasses for your non-free ranging flock.


Yum - just look at those delicious worms! When you pick out your ingredients, think of these suet cakes as a health supplement more than a treat or dessert. 

You also need suet... thus the name "suet cakes..."

If you have a local butcher, you can ask for waste suet. Many of the larger chain grocers won't give it (or sell it) to you because they can't sell anything unfit for human consumption... even if you swear up and down no humans will be consuming it... but sometimes nice people will help you out anyway.

If you can't get super cheap or free suet from a store, just save all the grease from cooking meats. I save the drippings from hamburgers when I cook on our George Foreman Grill, and when I brown ground beef in the skillet to make tacos. I put it in a container and keep it in the refrigerator until I'm ready to use it. If it will be more than a few days, go ahead and freeze it to preserve freshness!


Many folks are against using plastic - and I'm not a big fan, but this was what I had available the other day.

When you are ready to make suet cakes, just heat the now solid suet up until it is liquid, and start adding in your ingredients.


Add in dry ingredients a little at a time to test consistency. You don't want the mix to be too dry or it won't hold together. On the flip-side you don't want too much suet or your creation will look more like bumpy soap than something delicious.



Now you need a mold. I had these cute little (and horribly under-used) heart pans from a project I did with kids. They work great and the end result fits neatly into a smaller-size suet cage.


But you can also use just about anything else you have about the house...

 Just don't bring these to your kids' school bake sale!

You can even use old boxes lined with tinfoil or parchment paper or anything else that seems a good size and shape for your needs.

Unless I am lining my molds with foil or paper, I do grease them to help the hardened suet cakes slide out easily.

Then, just seal them up and pop them into the freezer for an hour or so. 


Once the suet has had time to harden, you can remove the cakes from the molds, reseal them and put them back into the freezer until you are ready to use them. All your fresh ingredients and meat will stay fresh this way, too! 



I put one in the indoor brooder and it took no prompting for the chicks to go to work on their new treat!


Creating your own suet cakes is so easy, and your flock will thank you... even if they are still covertly plotting your untimely demise for locking them up.

Get creative. These suet cakes can also make great gifts for your chicken (and wild bird) loving friends. 

(And though I would have loved to have been able to post a photo of my cooped broodies and their chicks enjoying my suet creations, when I opened the coop a crack in an attempt to get the shot, all I got was a blur of angry beaks and feathers flying directly at my camera lens in their frenzy to escape... sorry.)

And do you know what else make great gifts for your chicken-loving friends this holiday season?

How about Lisa Steele's new book, Fresh Eggs Daily? See This Post for more book details and to enter (you have just a few hours left) for a chance to win a copy!

And how about Sarah Rosedahl's adorable book, Chicken Breeds A to Z? Keep your eyes out - we'll be giving a copy away in the next few days!


Chicks dig it!

- Leigh
  
http://www.tillysnest.com/2013/10/down-home-blog-hopnumber-61-fall-cape.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+TillysNest+%28Tilly%27s+Nest%29


From The Farm Blog Hop 

*****************

December Giveaway Eggstravaganza - Antique Farm Sign

$
0
0

You voted and this was the favorite sign... so we're giving one away!!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062PNEIW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0062PNEIW&linkCode=as2&tag=natuchickeep-20"

FOLLOW THESE TWO EASY STEPS TO ENTER!
Read more »

Hen Bag Giveaway! Super-Cute Hen Purse

WOW - $40 Gift Certificate for Amazon! Enter to Win!


Keeping Chickens Healthy in the Cold Weather

Signs of a Stroke in Chickens - Yes, Chickens Can and Do Have Strokes.

$
0
0
Many of you will remember my post about my gyandromorphic chicken. You can read the post HERE if you would like to. Since the writing of the article, we named the chicken Italy. We couldn't call it a he or she and didn't want to keep referring to it as "it" so somehow "it" morphed into "Italy" over time.

Now I'm not so sure if Italy was truly a gyandromorph. It/he certainly may have been, but the more likely scenario, based upon recent developments, is that Italy may have had a chicken-y form of Cerebral Palsy.



Read more »

Random Farm Photos from this Week

Super-Simple Flourless Egg Bread

Where Do Eggs Come From - How Chickens Create Eggs

We're Having a Party!

$
0
0
I don't know about you, but I live wayyyy out in the country. I wouldn't change it, but there is one thing I do miss about suburban/urban life...

https://gotcandlez.scentsy.us/Scentsy/PartyCentral/3034790/PartyRsvp

I miss getting together with oodles of friends for fun product parties! Then I saw the adorable rooster warmer (the white one) that is on sale throughout the month of February... and I decided to go ahead and host a Scentsy party ONLINE! Heck - I have met so many wonderful folks out here, and there's no way you'd be able to find my house anyway - - so I do hope you will come!

Read more »

Help ~ I Broke My Chicken! What to do for a Broken Leg

$
0
0
Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Disclaimer:  Shattered bones, joint and soft-tissue issues may require different care than a cleanly broken bone and in some cases may not ever heal properly.



I have friendly chickens. Sometimes, though, their friendliness gets them (and me) into a bit of trouble. When I go out to feed, I tend to be swarmed by no less than 40 chickens, which can make it very difficult to walk. Two weeks ago the inevitable happened when I stepped on one of my younger flock members!

Read more »

Doesn't Everybody Keep Chickens in their Laundry Room?

$
0
0
Funny thing about this chicken addiction. It all seems to start out so innocently, and a couple years later... BOOM! An out of control Crazy Chicken Lady/Man is walking around wearing your shoes, kissing your spouse and living your life.


I refer to my friend Karen as my enabler. Our rather co-dependent friendship was born when she hatched chicks for me. Now I find myself bootlegging eggs to her in bi-weekly runs to a town an hour away. I quietly drop them off with our "messenger" and that evening Karen lets me know if the goods made it to her safely.
Read more »

I Donated a Chicken to Science - With Awesome Results!

$
0
0
Check out the complete Natural Chicken Keeping article at GRIT Magazine by clicking the picture below! And don't miss the video!!

http://www.grit.com/blogs/natural-chicken-keeping.aspx#axzz2peyKAK00

Been Gone Too Long!

$
0
0
Yes - I've been MIA for a while, but don't worry! I'll be posting more great articles soon.

Where have I been?





Moving the family, cat, 2 dogs and 50+ chickens to our new micro-farm about 2.5 hours away from the farm we were renting.

Oh, sweet Irony...  was this really the ONLY truck available in the size we needed?


Mr. Hawk seems positively delighted to have 50+ chickens in such close proximity! (And for the record, the horse trailer coop was a lifesaver when it came to moving!) See my Horse Trailer to Chicken Coop Transformation Here!

So keep checking back so you can find out what I am doing with this lovely shed:



(Here's a hint:)

See you soon!

~ Leigh


What Goes Around – Natural Prevention of Common Poultry Diseases

$
0
0


Recently an acquaintance of mine (who for privacy reasons we will call “X”) lost his/her entire flock of rare breed chickens to mycoplasma gallisepticum (MG). Due to the number of birds X had as well as the breeds involved, X’s monetary loss would be well into the thousands, though if you were to ask X I believe s/he would tell you that the emotional toll was far greater.

When the Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services came out to the X’s farm to euthanize the entire flock, X held his/her beloved birds one at a time and quietly whispered in its ear what s/he loved most about it. Then s/he handed it to a vet and stayed beside each one as the vet euthanized it.

Years of planning and careful breeding were lost in the span of a couple hours that day.


Marta - One of my own birds.


Why did this heart-wrenching story come to pass? It all goes back to two cockerels.

Wanting to add a particular color to their flock, X located someone selling two cockerels that fit into their breeding plans and purchased them. S/he did not do this lightly. As an intelligent person and a very careful chicken keeper, X kept the new birds in quarantine for almost a full month before allowing them near the rest of the flock.

Under most circumstances a month would be plenty of time for an illness to rear its ugly head, but unfortunately birds can be carriers of certain avian diseases without presenting symptoms of that disease. Such is the case with MG. Chances are the cockerel in question survived a case of MG prior to being sold to X, but in surviving MG it became a carrier of the disease for life.

I would much rather make my readers laugh than cry, but time and again I hear people tell stories of introducing a new bird to the flock with virtually no quarantine at all because “biosecurity is just too hard to keep up with.”

So please ask yourself – “Which is harder? Keeping up with biosecurity or losing every bird you have?”

 Severus enjoying a sunny day.

For the most part I keep a closed flock. This means that I simply don’t bring in any older birds at all. None. I either hatch eggs or buy brooder babies that have never been exposed to a flock at all. But this MG thing has me rethinking eggs and brooder babies also. MG is one of those super-nasties that can be passed by the hen into the fertile egg.

Bleh!

So I ask a thousand questions if I have to. I ask if the seller’s flock has had any respiratory issues, how they are kept and if any new birds have been brought onto their property lately? If the seller does not share information freely, or if something sounds amiss, I pass on the purchase.

On one hand, I don’t want to make biosecurity seem too difficult, but on the other I don’t want to withhold information that could cost a reader his/her flock.

But – there is a good method for bringing new birds of any age into your flock (somewhat) safely. It’s as simple as making your own Quarantine Kit:

The Quarantine Kit

Create a quarantine area as far removed from your coop as possible. (This may be as simple as a dog crate in a garage that sets away from your coop.) This area should stay set up even if you don’t plan on bringing in new birds. It should have its own feeding supplies and cleaning supplies - and for you; disinfectant spray, hand sanitizer and clothing that you will change in and out of as you come and go (and don’t forget shoes!) Nothing – and I mean nothing should be shared between your quarantine area and your coop. Ever.

The Biosecurity Method

  • Quarantine new birds by themselves for a minimum of 2+ weeks, watching for any signs of illness.
  • Change clothes and shoes and wash/sanitize well before going between new birds and existing flock. Use separate feeding supplies and coop cleaning supplies as well. (Don’t take chances!)
  • If new birds show NO sign of illness after 2+ weeks, bring your least favorite bird from your existing flock (your sacrifice bird) into the quarantine area and place in adjoining cage where birds may touch and will share air.
  • Wait another 2 weeks and watch your sacrifice bird for any signs of illness.
  • If there are NO signs of illness within 14+ days after the sacrifice bird has been introduced, the new birds are *probably* safe.

There are no 100% guarantees when it comes to preventing avian diseases, but the above method is the simplest and one of the most effective for the average backyard chicken keeper.

Sure – it’s a pain in the toot to scrub down and change your clothes just to visit or feed a new bird, but aren’t your other birds worth the effort?

Also – if you have friends who keep poultry, do not allow them within 10 feet of your chicken yard. Sure – they may roll their eyes or even feel insulted, but you can always say, “I know how much you care for your flock, so I know you’ll understand why I am so careful with mine. And I have this great article you can read if you’re interested…”

If You Suspect A Disease

First and foremost, isolate any and all sick birds immediately! If you already have a quarantine area, use it! If not, a box with holes cut in it will serve as a temporary cage until you can get something set up. Get the bird as far away from the rest of the flock as you can. Follow all quarantine precautions until you know what you are dealing with.

A cockerel in quarantine


There are tests for MG and a number of other poultry diseases. Contact your state’s Department of Agricultureto find out about testing if you suspect it is something contagious.

If you find out one of your birds does have a contagious disease, stop all live bird sales until the disease has been dealt with. Some diseases can be cured and birds won’t infect other birds once treated… but you must be certain which disease you are dealing with if you regularly sell birds or hatching eggs.

** If birds will remain carriers of this disease for the rest of their lives (as with MG), either cull the bird (and any others that have come in contact with that bird), or keep a closed flock – do not knowingly sell these birds and cause harm to another person’s flock! All MG carriers should be culled and not sold or given away if you decide you can no longer keep them.

For more information on poultry diseases, see the links below:





From The Farm Blog Hop

Bird Shots - April Showers Bring Swedish Flowers

$
0
0
While I haven't had time to get a good post put together, I couldn't resist rolling about in the grass with some of my favorite flock members today. All the birds below are Swedish Flower Hens (yup - even the rooster). The Swedish name is Skånsk Blommehöns.












Breed Overview - Skånsk Blommehöns - The Swedish Flower Hen

Wishing everybody a super day!

~Leigh
Viewing all 182 articles
Browse latest View live